I finally had a moment to myself to sit down and write. It's been a perpetual challenge for me to stay awake. My brain is in sensory overload. Everything I do, see, and touch is new. My knee has been hurting today because we have walked so much. I no longer am guilty about not working out. I'm satisfied with the amount of walking that we have done will suffice. Also, the food is incredibly fresh. Aside from the sandwich I had the other day with a tomato in it that was horribly unripened, everything is great. Last night we cooked dinner with President Mercer (he's been going by the alias of Pietro here in Italia) and his wife Jackie.
Doge's Palace - Palazzo Ducate
Outside the palace
I'm super into the elaborate Corinthian columns. Magnificent!
Courtyard of the palace
they used to feed secrets / accusations into the mouth of this dude. they were taken pretty seriously
OM NOM NOM NOM.
What the heck is a doge?
Well, he's typically a much older guy who governs, sort of like a magistrate. He typically wears a silly little hat with a point in the back. Here's a sexy one:
Is it me, or is this guy screaming excitement or what!?
Upon entering the building, we went up some stairs and I sniped out a picture of the breathtaking ceiling. I was reprimanded for my photography so I stopped pretty early. Here are the one's that I could get:
Ceiling
More cool ceilings
Absolutely gorgeous chandeliers. These wood ceilings are all over the city. Sometimes they were left plain. This one was in the living quarters of the doge. I saw them elsewhere with elaborate decorations and paintings on them.
View from the palazzo and how it connects to the basilica.
A shiny hiney. You better hide it, before I bite it!
(My grandma used to say this to me....)
In the basement of the palace there were prisons. They were tiny and damp. They smelled super moldy. The cells weren't that tiny but the hallways were dark and dreary. There was one bridge called the bridge of sighs. Prisoners would sigh as they crossed it knowing that they were never returning. The palace was split into 3 sections.
1. Private living quarters which were "modest" - bullshit.
2. Public rooms where the senate held court.
3. Prisons
The public rooms were - bewildering. I'm starting to run out of adjectives. The thesaurus might need to be broken out soon. The main room was very large. It was sectioned off into many sections. Every inch of the ceiling and walls were covered. At this point my brain was completely saturated. It was near impossible for my eyes to stay open. Perhaps I was at fault. The night before I had quite the late night food binge. We got some pizza, gelato and had some left over tiramisu for our late night snack. I've had quite a few gelatos. While I'm on the topic of night life, I've yet to find toilet paper at night in public. It's quite devastating. I not only have to hover close to the ground, but then I have to suffer the humility of the shake and wiggle. Some of the bathrooms are hidden and outside, it's traumatizing.
Oh my I didn't talk about the dinner yet- i'll get there.
Back to historical business. One thing that I was totally enthralled with were the tapestries that were used to decorate the walls inside the palace. They were thick and luxurious damask patterns. Most were vibrant reds, but they varied. Considering I just wallpapered my bedroom in a damask, I was totally digging it. The purpose of the fabrics were used to insulate the rooms.
Gypsy's
They're beautiful people. I'm mesmerized by them. The homeless population in New York is not scary, and these aren't either. These people are slightly pathetic, but good at what they do. For some reason I'm fixated on them when ever I see them. I clench my purse with apprehension and look on in curiosity. They jingle their change cup with dignity and the unassuming ones who are 'working' prey on innocence. I also saw a young boy working the crowd.
Dinner with great company!
President Mercer and his wife Jackie spend their last night in Venezia with us. We cooked and it was a great meal. Kelly and I prepared a light Venetian style pasta with fresh, young gorgonzola, mozzarella, basil, and cherry tomatoes tossed in some evoo. Most contributed to the meal and I set the table for 14. A great time was had by all. Mr. Mercer picked up some stuff to try. We blind taste tested two evoo's. One was really expensive and one was generic supermarket brand. I picked the better one, naturally and he replied "you're no cheap date." I'm a food snob, and I don't resent it. We also tried some cow tongue. My guess was that it was boiled. It tasted sort of like a mystery bologna/proscutto. He didn't tell any one what it was and most ate it. HA! I would have anyway. I'm still super curious to try the squid ink risotto. The proscutto drizzed in aged balsamic was out of this world. He also prepared some steamed artichokes and a pasta dish. As my dear friend Rachel Ray would say, YUMMO.

Conversation was divine. We joked about novel things as well as hit on some serious topics like religion, nutrition, education, law and world politics. It was a really great evening. One topic that came up- I mentioned that there were no female gondolieras. Kathy mention that there was one. I did some research and I found out some more information about her. She worked for a private hotel. Goldiers have to follow strict guidlines even dictating the width of the stripes on their shirt. Awesome for her but I certainly feel her pain.
Read more about it here:
http://www.amoretravelguides.com/blog/first-female-gondolier-has-venice-talking.php
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1547402/Female-gondolier-turns-tide-of-Venices-history.html
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/14/world/europe/14venice.html
The Italian Mind is complex, but I feel if I spent enough time here I can crack it. They speak in their broken English but know damn well what's going on. If I'm ordering a gelato or getting hit on by an Italian, they know. This is not knew to them. This is a transient town. It's depressing how few are true to the culture, but those who are, get it. They're numb to the tourism. I'm feeling a bit more at ease just being here at week but I'm not that numb- yet. I definitely feel as if I'll indefinitely have a connection to this city. It's majestic and surreal and the locals are unique. The few I have spoken to don't have any idea where things are located, but it's all sensory. That brings me to my next point: romance. I'm completely in love with the Italian language. It's romance at it's finest. I understand fragments but it's spoken so eloquently and I'm OK with understanding what I catch.
MISC. Thoughts
- This is no vacation, folks. We work around the clock, soaking up all occasions and every situation - or at least I do.
- I need a manicure, terribly, but I'm sucking it up because this is unforgettable.
- They don't refrigerate eggs here. That's weird. It makes me nervous to eat them.
- Since I'm forced to be intellectually "on" at all hours of the day, I feel - bright. I feel like conclusions and baby revelations come to me with ease. Maybe this is my big transformation I was anticipating. - A greater acceptance of life and culture.
- This is a tourist trap. My purchases are strategic. I'm waiting patiently to visit the authentic leather craftsman who's work allegedly can compete with hermes and vuitton.
- I don't have any desire to buy the shit that's everywhere. It's an orient express. I'm obsessed with authenticity and I refuse to settle for anything less, despite the price.
- bitching out- my camera is heavy.
- I'm way more into architecture than art.
- It smells like the jersey shore. I love gasoline and water. It's a comfort.
- Marketing is much different here. High fashion markets their merch in the same strategic fashion. There are highs and lows- strategic placement. Some of the local shops get it as well. I appreciate it. I think my biggest way to sniff out the Chinese replications is the way they market their - junk.
- Italian women glide like swans. They ignore the distractions and posture is imperative to their image. They maintain this while possessing a sense of comfortable ease.
- Big brother's watching, but I'm not sure how closely.
The Great Debate : Bidet vs. Foot washer
The bidet's here are not as strong as I envisioned them. They are like a sink in a toilet boil. One night, I indulged in a few glasses of wine and was convinced it was a foot washer. My feet are filthy here. My shoes are black and when I wear sandals, my feet are absolutely grotesque. In fact, they almost itch from the grime. So I washed my feet in them one night. Hey! Don't laugh, there's no harm in that. It's purely for cleaning. :)
They also don't have dryers here. I'm no princess, but I at least need clothes pins for drying stuff outside. It's hard for my clothes to dry in the humidity here.
My itunes is playing Brett Dennen. I've never heard it before, don't know where it came from, but I'm digging it right now,
Today we trekked to the
Academia Museum.
Female Venetian painters did not exist until much later. Even when they were introduced, females were only allowed to paint portraits. It was thought that males were the only one's who possessed a creative mind. It wasn't until the 1500's that women broke out onto the art scene. Most of the art we viewed from earlier times were painted wooden panels. Art supplies were really expensive so there was very few creative creations. The church sponsored all artwork.
There's no such thing as modesty or minimalism. It's grandiose or your butt will be swimming back home. No expenses appeared to be spared in both the art and the palazzo ducate. Gold leaf is in no short supply. Ceilings with endless patterns and decadence compliment the floor who are hardly modest. This post renaissance styling is much more fluid compared to the geometric Byzantine stylings that I had seen in the past few days. It's truly an amazing experience to view a painting of a church and then go to the church and have it look exactly the same.
One fresco that really struck a chord with me was a Giordione piece- La Nuda.
It was just a few fragments of this faded women. Her eyes were washed out and blurred but they somehow managed to posses an incandescent glow. The fresco was salvaged from an exterior building from 1476.
This culture is so heavily saturated with religion. With my personal views still teetering and constantly reforming, it's hard for me to image what life would be like here. We got into a bit of a deep conversation last night at dinner and it seems that most of us who have had catholic upbringings have strayed because of the rigidity. I brought up the 2nd Vatican Council that was held in the mid 1960's. Quite frankly, I think a third might be in order if they intend on keeping their following.
Male vs Female Bodies and how they were depicted varied through out the centuries. Men were always extremely masculine. Attention to detail was paid towards definition. Femininity evolved in a way where it was curvaceous, full, and graceful.
I took a break from art an put my anthropological cap on. There was a group of high school students. They followed their guide and teacher around. Their notebooks were attentively cocked and appeared thirsty to soak up every second of this experience. Some people sat and sketched. I really enjoyed watching these people. Their intense gaze was fixed upon the paintings as if they were trying to channel the 1,000 years in between them and the artist. Nothing in the world mattered to them and that was pretty cool to observe. There was a grandmother and her grown granddaughter. The grandmother was frail and walking with a cane. They sat closely together and the granddaughter read to her about the paintings. It was really a beautiful sight. I wish I could experience these things with my family. I know they would appreciate it just as much as I do. Personally, I don't like having a notebook with me at museums. I feel as if it takes away from the majestic feelings that the artist is trying to portray. Art is a personal experience. I'd rather sit in silence and get lost in it. However, I turned it around and was happy with what I observed.
A few paintings depicted red angels in the heavens. I asked Marina what this was about and she said that there were 9 categories of angels. Their powers ranged and the hierarchy spanned with archangels being at the top. I wish to one day aspire to know endless information about a specific area. Marina's extensive knowledge about Venice is astonishing. I haven't come across any question that stumps her. She's really a wealth of knowledge.
A picture is worth way more than 1000 words for me. Some faces look as if they're petrified in time. Genre art lacks force. Not very many people smiled or smirked in the paintings. They possessed a sort of hollowness. That's more art history that I've learned in my entire life. I do wish and regret that I was more attentive in middle school and high school. I learned a lot about it, and had a good basis of knowledge, but it has seemed to have gotten lost.
I went to the local wine store afterwards. Kelly and I purchased 1.5 litres of cabernet in plastic bottle for 5 euros. Holy bargain, batman! I'm a happy camper. This cab is one of the best I have ever tasted. There's large containers that look like gas tanks. They're silver and have pumps and it cracks me up. Fill 'er up! I'll get a picture of the place before I leave, I'm sure that's not going to be my last visit.
After the wine store, we went to a sickeningly rude travel agent. The shop was small and tucked away. We were forewarned that they were the "nazi" travel agent. Marina was with us and helped negotiate some prices but apparently memorial day weekend is also a big get away weekend in europe as well. It would cost 200 euro for a flight to Barcelona for the weekend. I think we're going to lean towards a Tuscan escape.
When I spoke with my father this afternoon, he asked me how I have all this time to write. So far this blog is 22 pages today. Holy moly, perhaps I should I pursue a career in journalism. It's a bit late of a realization, but hey, I'm all for spontaneity!